Across Calcutta's Howrah Bridge to Howrah Station
Shantiniketan "the abode of peace".
Destination Info
State: West Bengal India
Getting Here Airport- Kolkata Airport CCU (2 – 2.5 hour drive to Shantiniketan)
Train: Bolpur Railway Station (5 min drive to Shantiniketan)
Destinations: Visva Bhariti University, Rabindra Bhavan, Ballabpur Wildlife Sanctuary, Amar Kutir, Sonajhuri Forest Market
As travelers, we seldom stick to our scripts, scripts that draw our much-elated intrigue for a particular destination. It’s the tales of the past, scattered remnants of gallant legacies, uninterrupted leisure, or Just natural thrills that give us the edge we need to travel, but one thing is for sure, we are there to “Explore”. Just as school kids moments before the final bell, we excite ourselves for the adventure ahead. Our senses stretch to their limits with sight uncovering the littlest details before fighting estranged angles while setting up the perfect shot, our ears tutor themselves to the harmony or the chaos of the new environment, and our inquisitive noses that go well beyond a menu to interrogate the cook to hand over the secrets in the recipe. Our decisions however aren’t too spontaneous when it comes to visiting a new place, we prefer to gather the breadcrumbs of just the right information before losing ourselves in divine exploration.
There have been many instances where I have heard of a place in Bengal that was built on the foundations of culture and an infinite thirst for unconventional knowledge. A place that has proudly accomplished a man’s vision to evolve education alongside the realms of nature and develop a human mind simply with one’s own inner creative desire. A place distinguished around the world for its immaculate curriculum, creative alumni, and its illustrious founder Nobel Laureate Rabindranath Tagore.
Shantiniketan is a three-hour train journey from Kolkata’s Howrah station and finally one early winter morning, I ventured out to the renowned sanctum. A childhood friend who had just returned from his travels abroad was delighted to accompany me after I shared an overwhelming account of mystifying destination information I had gathered over a period of time. I arrived first and stood beside the makeshift pantry of a tea stall outside the Howrah station while I awaited his arrival. A spectacular variation in contrasts between the historic cantilevered Howrah Bridge and the never-ending rush of the fresh market vendors that emerged from under its gigantic beams captured my momentary attention. With oversized baskets stacked on their heads, they parade into the city for the day’s trade, interestingly, though their vision may have been obstructed by the blinding payload, it certainly did not seem to deter their continuous flow. He arrived shortly and we exchanged our long-awaited greetings complemented with a cup of hot tea. On entering the grand heritage façade of the station, we proceeded straight to the enquiry counter to confirm our departure. “On Time,” said the attendant and we knew we were off to a good start.
Indeed, it was a good start as our train ascended into the station ahead of schedule and departed right on it.
The journey begins with the smell of burning coal from the nearby tea stalls and a scanty fog floating above the sheen of the adjacent tracks reflecting the creeping beams of the sunrise. I am never much of a sleeper on train journeys and prefer to meerkat my vivid imagination out the window and into the open countryside. As the daylight gains its momentum, the aisle of the coach is fiercely attacked by countless vendors, all with their own enticing display and sales pitches that could challenge the best Wall Street traders on a good day. Amusingly time flickers by, with every stoppage bringing in a fresh supply of the human vending machines. Remarkably each stop matched its assigned schedule and we soon arrived at our destination (Bolpur, Shantiniketan) in perfect timing.
I always prefer walking while on tour as it brings out much more to the experience, and so before our trip began, I had asked my friend if he was ok with long walks, he concurred and wore a pair of comfortable trainers to support his decision. After a brief glance at our digital maps outside the station along with polite refusals to the cluster of “ToTo” (electric rickshaws used in Shantiniketan as private hire taxis) drivers offering their services, we began our walk in the direction of our lodging. (It takes around half an hour to reach Shantiniketan from Bolpur station at a steady newbie pace, an hour if you get newbie lost, which we ended up doing).
The route from Bolpur station to Shantiniketan is through the main town and market area first which can be a thrill with chaotic traffic whizzing closely past, but ten minutes into the walk, you arrive at a diversion with a signboard welcoming you to sudden pleasantness.
It was indeed the road to Shantiniketan and even if the signboard didn’t say so, you would have known with poised certainty. The road was peacefully quiet with scarce traffic of silver-haired ladies on bicycles going about their morning routines. Well-separated bungalows each with a proud display of tended gardens and trimmed hedges lined the picturesque pathway where fallen winter leaves had been neatly piled up at short intervals on each side. This continued elegantly until we realized that our admiration for civic orderliness had got us ahead of our exit, but not too far off. We corrected our direction and after running into a few dead-ends and meandering through pathways along the quiet countryside, we arrived at our cottage and were humbly greeted by the cottage staff. After a short exchange of welcoming chatter and a confirmation of our identity, we were handed over the keys to our home away from home for the next few days.
The Cottage was spacious and represented all the comforts of a home, surrounded by trees and organized vegetation, simply the ideal conditions for our wandering spirits. After a sumptuous breakfast and a refreshing shower, it was time to gratify my perception of the destination with a bit of exploring. The cottage was centrally located bordering the Visva-Bharati university premises which encouraged us to refrain from using our digital maps, and instead, trust our dubious sense of direction.
We set out and began by first visiting the oldest building in Shantiniketan, where the inception of inspiration for Visva Bharati University began “Shantiniketan Griha”. On arriving at the entrance, we were informed by the house security staff that most of the museums were closed and restricted to visitors as part of the pandemic protocols. A bit discouraged and still brimming with enthusiasm, we stood outside the tall gates that revealed the grand portico of the childhood home of the great poet, which in a distance stood behind its pebbled pathway. Just then, emerging through the bird-chirping atmosphere came a polite introduction from a local youth. The youth told us that he was a student at the University and asked if we were interested in a tour where he assured us that though inside access had been restricted, he would willingly show us around and share intricate details of the history and the cultural aspects of Shantiniketan. Overwhelmed, we accepted his offer and used our reignited limbs to follow attentively.
Day 1
It all began with a tree. In the 1800’s Maharishi Devendranath Tagore passed by a then abandoned landscape and took shelter under a Chatim (Alstonia) tree. Being a philosopher and founder of the Brahmo religion he had the vision to convert the barren land into a prosperous self-dependent community. Taking a permanent lease from the Talukdar (Landowners during the Mughal and British Empires) the Maharishi started the construction of a guesthouse and called it “Shantiniketan” which translates to “The Abode of Peace”. The fundamentals of the Brahmo Religion is that “God is Infinite, whose love is everywhere and in everything” and thus the design of Shantiniketan Griha involves Hindu, Islamic, and Christian motifs within its grand architecture. It is also the house where Poet Rabindranath Tagore the youngest son of the Maharishi spent most of his early years writing inspiring poetry.
Solace, serenity, and love for nature can be seen and felt throughout Shantiniketan, with the Tagore family themselves responsible for the thriving vegetation of plants and trees brought from around the world and planted within the once barren landscape.
Rabindranath Tagore wanted to share his knowledge and vast understanding with people from around India and the world which led him to establish an ashram. It was to be an experimental school where students could learn meditation and nature. The Upasana Griha, a prayer hall decorated with colorful Belgian glass and marble flooring was the foundation of the ashram. It is where dignitaries and friends from around the world have had the honor of meditating with the poet himself.
We continued onward around the premises and discovered a clay hut built around a palm tree. The hut was built without sophistication and used natural earth on its shell, a palm tree peering through the roof though gave it its alluring character. Upon questioning our native host, we learned that it was indeed built by the poet himself and was the inspiration for yet another of his fascinating works.
Rabindranath Tagore’s writing didn’t go unnoticed and soon he became the first lyricist in the world to be honored with a Nobel Prize for Literature. It was this grand achievement that further broadened the horizons of his commitment towards the ashram and soon founding Visva-Bharati which translates to “communion of the world with India”.
Kala Bhavana which is the Institute of Fine arts spearheaded the growth of the illustrious campus which today comprises several Institutes, schools, and their many departments that have in the past inspired the honorable works of Nandalal Bose, Ramkinkar Baij and Satyajit Ray.
Each structure had its own fascinating history with large sculpted artworks in the campus gardens and paintings on walls the impressed us with their revelations, as we walked through the charismatic campus. After taking a few pit stops at tiny tea stalls for a taste of the local chai, we arrived at a large Banyan tree. The tree was old too, with roots curling and stretching far beyond its trunk, we learned that the tree was planted by the Maharishi Devendranath Tagore to mark the end of the land he had leased. Encircled around the base of the tree were stones mounted together forming three steps called “Teen Pahar” (three mountains). The stones were placed by a then teenaged Rabindranath Tagore before his first visit to the Himalayas.
After absorbing an abundant supply of history and culture, we needed to find a quiet place and time to reflect on our newfound knowledge and build our very own imaginary timeline of events. What’s amazing is that the land surrounding the university is well strewn with lakes, thriving vegetation, and nature reserves, so finding an ideal location isn’t too much of a hassle. The essence of Tagore’s vision for students learning at the ashram was their constant relationship with nature and until today students still continue that robust connection and enjoy most of their education in the vast outdoors under the gentle shade of the trees. So, we bid farewell to our generous host and did just that. We sat under the cover of trees by a steady lake until sunset before we drew the curtains on our inspirational day.
Day 2
The morning welcomed us with a pleasant greeting from the birds on the branches of our wooded surroundings. The quiet night’s rest had renewed our sentiments for the onward quest.
One would envy the residents of Shantiniketan, who relish the fruits of this natural wonderland, but conclusive certainty cannot be drawn without meeting them in person. And so, we set out into the countryside to meet Mr. and Mrs. Dey. The Dey family have been residing in Shantiniketan for decades with Mr. Dey preferring to spend his retirement on the premises of their beautiful cottage home “Mitali” (Friendship). Upon entering the compound, we found ourselves surrounded by orchids and organic plantations encircling the fabulous façade of Mitali. The couple welcomed us inside their marvelous abode for some refreshments and an exchange of pleasantries. Mr. Dey shared some fascinating insights about the region both past and present which gave us the correct perspective required to understand the town from a resident’s point of view. Before we bid adieu, Mr. Dey offered to show us around the cottage and the plantation.
Mitali is more than a residence; it is contemporary artistic architecture built with traditional finesse. The couple have now opened a section of their home to visitors who wish to experience the graceful heritage of Shantiniketan.
The pleasant experience of meeting the Deys was revitalizing and after saying our goodbyes, we were back on the open road heading in the direction of folk music and traditional art, known as the Sonajhuri Haat (forest market). Though there is a paved road that leads you to the Haat, we decided to take a village trail through a eucalyptus forest instead.
The trail led us to the beautiful natural landscape through dry ravines and still lakes. The sound of the wind against the scantly surviving winter leaves on the trees followed us throughout until it was interrupted by the faint vibrations of organized tunes approaching from a distance. We were in the right direction and within the enchanting heart of the Sonajhuri Forest.
Reflections of bright colors stealthily emerged through the swaying shrubberies that soon revealed a whole new world of traditional commerce, alive with artisans and craftsmen exhibiting their wood carvings, abstract oil paintings, and bundles of intricately weaved linen. Dancers and musicians traditionally clad were performing at all corners of the market to tunes played directly from the pages of the grandmaster’s book known as Rabindra Sangeet (songs composed or inspired by Rabindranath Tagore). We sat under a thatched shed and quenched ourselves with a refreshing crushed orange juice, while we adjusted ourselves before jumping into the majestic cultural ambiance.
We explored every inch of the Haat at a gentle pace, regularly stopping to investigate a creative exhibit that caught the eye. We soon discovered the source of the now vibrant melodies resonating vividly from the vintage instruments of professional musicians who like the piper himself, attracted all the visitors with their mystifying sound. Indeed, it was the tactics of the piper used to attract visitors towards a large establishment serving lip-smacking traditional cuisine, just a few yards away from where they performed.
After a fabulously presented traditional luncheon, we decided to continue our journey through the forest to catch the colors of a pollution-free dusk. The Buddha Park on the fringes of the forest is where we were headed, and after a mildly paced walk immediately after our heavy meal, we were free from sloth and rewarded with the sight of a perfectly sculptured Buddha seated in Vajrasana (sitting posture depicting folded limbs over each other facing upward). The Park marks the end of the forest and is surrounded by a large open field. We sat on the boundary wall just as the dropping sun began to illustrate different variations of light on the elevated sculpture. The eerie quietness in the air and the picking-up windy chill conveyed our inspiring day to yet another serene end.
Mitali
The forest market
Day 3
Our intentional later than usual wake-up was greeted with a midday lit atmosphere, the sun shining brightly through clear blue skies for our final farewell. One thing is for sure, “a visible sight of the finish line ends with one final boost,” and so after extending our gratitude to our awesome lodging staff, we headed out a bit downhearted but with a final boost of enthusiasm for our remaining hours in the beautiful countryside. Our sleep-in had put us on the path of a straight Lunch, and finding suitable options could get tricky in such situations due to our unfamiliarity with the new heading. It was going to be the first meal of the last day and we weren’t going to settle for something that didn’t bring out the taste of the land, “the final boost” remember. Luckily for us, Shantiniketan has an array of hotels serving fine traditional meals at almost every corner block.
The agenda for the day was to explore the Nature Reserve and thus we preferred to dine at an eatery on its route. An empty stomach uses a collection of senses but relies mostly on smell to achieve its reward. So we put our snouts to work and like a fox, after a blizzard, we began our mission. It wasn’t long before we started picking up traditional aromas and soon finalized on an establishment with a comfortable outdoor arrangement. The meal and the hospitality exquisitely matched the pleasant atmosphere and threw-in a fair share of enlightenment into our diminishing morale.
The Reserve wasn’t too far and after a mouthful of Indian digestive herbs (offered after meals at restaurants and eateries), we treaded into the clutches of nature.
With a growing influence of human settlements over the years in the region, there needed to be a fine line between the art of living and the prosperity of nature, and so in 1977, the Ballavpur Wildlife Sanctuary was established with 200 hectares of protected and maintained land reserved justly for nature. The Sanctuary has been honored for its successful conservation strategies with herds of Spotted Deer and Blackbucks in visible abundance. Large lakes within the sanctuary attract and offer sanctum to migratory birds who fly across the Himalayas to escape the treacherous winter of their native lands. One can also catch a glimpse of Jackals and Foxes attempting to blend in amongst the thickets but are almost always let down by their distinctive bushy tails and helplessly return to their shy ways.
There is nothing more delightful than a walk on a path in the realms of nature. The Ballavpur sanctuary is outlined with pathways for visitors around its stunning biodiversity with tall watchtowers at different locations throughout the sanctuary offering visitors excellent birds-eye views of the reserve below.
The experience was fresh and naturally tranquil, and after a fulfilling experience, we departed the reserve pleasantly content. On the road back we were met with a sudden congestion of young athletes in matching attire who confirmed that their attendance was for a local Football tournament being held at a field nearby.
Interested in catching some local sporting action and on the good side of the clock we joined the assembly and positioned ourselves among the wall of spectators. Sport is always a thrill and though we weren’t on any side the roar of the fans was intense and uplifting. On further inquiry with a few distracted spectators who briefly told us that it was indeed a final between the home side and a neighboring district.
After a goalless first half and a catching up clock, we continued onward and offered our wishes of triumph for the local team, in return for the kind hospitality we were shown by the people of Shantiniketan over the past few days.
Onward to the station we were once again enticed by the stunning reflections of the setting sun on the gently spread ripples of a large lake. With a much-needed break from our hike, we relaxed one last time on a shaded embankment, which became the location for the perfect farewell to an amazing experience. We reminisced on our awesome adventure and though we were childhood friends catching up after more than a decade our now matured personalities agreeably let Shantiniketan do most of the talking.
Traditional laundry ramps
